patina

[72superguy]

does anyone know how to do artifical patina?

[sean]

funny you ask this.  http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3273830 has a topic of a j-body cavalier that accomplished this in a couple hours with vinegar and salt. here are a few pics in case you can't view the topic. there is no going back from this, fair warning. welcome to the forum.

[chencho]

 

[Lee]

In my opinion the appeal of natural patina is that it typically rusts extremely slowly for whatever reason.  That cav is going to be a total POS after about a year if it sees any weather.

[Rich]

In my opinion the appeal of natural patina is that it typically rusts extremely slowly for whatever reason.  That cav is going to be a total POS after about a year if it sees any weather.

GOING to be? haha

[72superguy]

That a littlel further then i plan on going...iv also seen people do it by wiping the paint off there car befor it is finished drying...it gives it a wearthered faded paint look but i haver found any tech articals or vids if it.

[Rich]

i had a friend who painted his car with a base coat that was rust colored, then painted the light/faded ble he wanted, then went back and sanded through the blue in key areas to give it a weathered look

[72superguy]

thats how im going tp do mine with red oxide primer as a base.

[suicidedoordavid]

although this appears to be rust, it's considered patina.


aged about 15 years of patina.



and from the "old" hoodride time period, a hoodride stencil.


this is my next project. slammed, narrowed, and with suicidedoors.

[Rich]

I personally would prefer painted on patina, rather than actual rust. Mostly because the rust will continue to eat away at your car, weaken the integrity of the metal, and if you change your mind, you cant just repaint the real rust, lol

[chencho]

CLR works well for superficial surface rust. As a base clean-up it can be a good start. Applying a clear coat over the surface rust that's left after cleaning can "lock" it in and protect the sheet metal from rotting further. A lot of people use a linseed or teak oil to "rub" in for a semi-gloss shine.

Be careful with the term, "patina". I'm not trying to be a douche here... but the original idea of patina came from the natural wear and overall affect of time taking it's toll on factory paint. In all reality, it's an earned process. When manufactured to look like it has natural patina, it loses it's definition and uniqueness.

You have to be lucky enough to find patina. If you force it, you've lost the concept all together. Layering paint and then sanding it off can look great. It's a way of painting a car to make it look old and used. But if it's not natural, it's not technically patina.

[mcbuggin56]

I'm witgh him, that cavalier is way out there... its like a relic job on a guitar... looks beatup and played but none of the uniqueness of a guitarthatsreally been rocked on for 25 years... just let it happen... don't wash it and don't worry about scratches, but don't neglect it because the you end up with rot like my 56 that's splitting at the door seam and the door has no bottom... have fun though! That's the main part! Its your car, your expression, not mine or his... but as a word of wisdom... my wife forbid  me to let my son near my 56... haha. I've been mandated to get a tetnus booster as well 

[Type raT]

http://www.spike.com/full-episodes/6s6gqx/powerblock-trucks-classix-part-5-faux-tina-season-2-ep-422   <----------------easy way